As you descend through the clouds and catch your first glimpse of the Faroe Islands from the plane, chances are you’re looking at Vágar, the third biggest of the 18 islands which make up the Faroes. Here, you’ll find a place of contrasts and contradictions, an atmosphere of isolation next to the country’s only international airport. 

It’s barely 45km from here to Tórshavn, routing via the first subsea tunnel in the islands, which links Vágar with neighbouring Streymoy. However, you’d be doing the island an injustice if you raced immediately off to the capital – there are several things to check out before you leave the island.

Sørvágur, Bøur, Gásadalur

Mykines

From Gásadalur, there are uninterrupted views of the westernmost island in the Faroese chain: Mykines. The island is known for its rich birdlife, and during the summer season, the skies above Mykines are full of the sights and sounds of various species of seabirds. It’s puffins, though, that Mykines specialises in – thousands of these comical little parrot-like birds return to their burrows on the island's western side to rear their young during the short northern summer. However, Mykines is also home to the Faroes’ only gannetry – you’ll no doubt spot these enormous white birds with yellowish heads and black-tipped wings (their wingspan measures up to 2m) diving from a height of up to 30m, spearlike, into the sea in search of fish.

Get lost in the history, culture, and stunning nature of Vágar and Mykines, but please remember to stay on designated paths.

Miðvágur and Sandavágur

In the opposite direction, heading east across Vágur on your way perhaps to Tórshavn or wherever your journey takes you, you’ll pass the twin villages of Miðvágur and Sandavágur, handy spots for a bite of lunch or the chance to stock up on supplies at the shops here – and barely 7km or so from the airport.